Nyotaimori (女体盛り) is Japanese for “female body presentation” (aka “body sushi”): the practice of eating sashimi or sushi from
the nude body of a woman.
Before becoming nyotaimori, the model is trained to
lie down for hours without moving. Her pubic
hair is often shaved, and she washes
using a special fragrance-free soap then finishes with a splash
of cold water to chill the skin. The preferred style of Nyotaimori dining is to use your
fingers to retrieve the sushi off the body, but  restrictions in some
locations may require the use of chopsticks only in order to assure that patrons don’t touch the model and/or violate any
local ordinances. In addition, modern public nyotaimori events usually utilize banana leaves or plastic wrap as a sanitary barrier between the sushi and the model’s skin.

Nyotaimori became popular in Germany in the late 1990s and in California
in the early 2000s; a newspaper article about “body sushi” in New York
City first appeared in the New York Post in 2003. Better known as “Naked Sushi” in the west, nyotaimori is more of a culinary “art event” than a restaurant experience. In 2003 a monthly nyotaimori event at Seattle’s Bonzai restaurant drew protests from feminists who claim that “treating women like a serving platter reinforces attitudes that make domestic and sexual violence so prevalent.” The evening’s model countered, claiming that “the experience is relaxing, sensual and meditative….it’s ridiculous to comment on it without experiencing it. It’s
hearsay.” Her critics retorted by claiming the model had
“internalized her oppression.”

Although it’s often stated that “…the true history behind nyotaimori
in Japan has been obscured by legend
and rumors” some Japanese cultural experts suggest that the practice
actually began as recently as the 1980s economic boom, when wealthy businessmen
had a sudden
abundance of money and were looking for creative ways to spend it. While nyotaimori does exist in Japan, particularly in Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto, for the general public it exists only in a limited sense in
the Japanese sex industry; according to
a 2009 Japan Times article,
Tokyo actress Miho Wakabayashi talked about performing nyotaimori at the Sleeping Beauty “happening bar” in Tokyo’s Shibuya district. “Happening bars” are basically sex clubs, often with an S&M slant. But even in that case it was a special event, considered a novelty to bring in new customers.

Food laws in Japan -especially laws regarding raw food- are strict; in
more and more sushi restaurants in Japan, sushi chefs are starting to
wear plastic gloves when handling raw fish. As a result of being served on a
human body, the temperature of the sushi or sashimi comes closer to body
temperature which may possible create an issue involving salmonella. According to Nikkan Gendai
one restaurant in Shinjuku’s Kabukicho entertainment district in opened
in June 1998 and immediately closed due to a salmonella outbreak,
although it was difficult to determine whether the bacteria originated
from the sushi, the presentation, or the sexual acts that accompanied
the event.

 

Wakabayashi believes that an old-fashioned view of nudity has
allowed the practice to evolve and remain in these obscure areas. “In
the Western community,” she says, “if there is an artistic object that
contains nudity it could be considered as a type of expression. In
Japan, it is deemed taboo before any kind of examination that might lead
it to be considered artistic.” The actress, however, does not agree with the Japanese critics when
it comes to the portrayal of nyotaimori overseas. At least, she says, it
indicates that others are interested and observing Japan: “It shows
they are paying attention.”
Jake Adelstein, author of “Tokyo Vice,” a memoir documenting his 12 years of reporting on crime for the Yomiuri Shimbun,
says that nyotaimori has its fans within various organized crime groups
but adds that it is generally considered over-the-top for today’s
tastes. “It still takes place and it was definitely something that the yakuza liked to do at parties,” he explains, “but as for now, it’s less popular [with gangsters] than before.”

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References:
http://www.tokyoreporter.com; navigating japans nyotaimori netherworld
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PjDFPwoeSI
ocweekly.com; naked-sushi-bleu (slideshow)
vanityfair.com; Confessions of a Naked Sushi Model by Melanie Berliet